BOOK CLUB: Sew Lingerie - Maddie Kulig

Sew Lingerie: make size-inclusive bras, panties, swimwear & more

The Secret Sewing Club Book Club book for February is a brand new book on the scene for sewists. Having only been published in January 2024, this is a comprehensive guide to sewing lingerie for sewists of all skill levels. Maddie Kulig has generated a huge following with her incredible makes, beautiful patterns and deep knowledge of her craft through her business Madalynne Intimates https://madalynne.com.  Through Madalynne, Maddie makes high end, size inclusive, sexy, sultry but most importantly comfortable lingerie accessible to everyone. I defy you to look and not feel inspired by the beautiful samples sewn from her patterns. I often scroll through the Madalynne Instagram feed too - and a search of the relevant pattern hashtags there can show you even more inspiration from normal, every-day women bringing a little personalised glamour to their undergarments. 

When I heard that Maddie was publishing a book on her craft, I jumped on the pre-order list and waited patiently for it to arrive.

As a garment sewist with a love of historical costume, undergarments are not unfamiliar to my repertoire but I am far more at home making bespoke corsetry than I am making a bra.  Nevertheless I am really fascinated by this whole new world of sewing and can see why it would become additive, especially if you have a bust that seems to supersede what is otherwise easily available in terms of sizing.

What’s good about it?

The book starts with an intro to Maddie’s own journey (always fascinating to hear how people got to where they are today) with a brief history of underwear and and a detailed introduction to the many different terms of specific pieces of lingerie with line drawings and writing descriptions.  I learned things here that I didn’t know I hadn’t given much thought to previously and I found it super informative.

The following sections explore tools, materials, techniques and pattern adjustments, all of which are jam packed full of information.  I learned some new sewing terms including the acronym DOGS (direction of greatest stretch) which was a newbie for me but made a lot of sense!

What I liked most about these sections is the way in which Maddie explains the science behind the engineering aspects of creating well fitting, comfortable and yet supportive intimate items.  Many of you will have heard me say, over and over and over, that ‘sewing is engineering’ and I’m not sure there is a truer instance when creating a garment to defy the effects of gravity and age on a body, fit comfortably on her curves and undulations, and remain comfortable as well as attractive while supporting and holding her.

The final sections include patterns for different styles of bra, bodysuit, pants and swimwear all of which can be specifically altered to suit specific physical needs as outlined in the previous chapters.

The patterns are attractive and appealing, and immediately triggered my imagination to start creating in my mind the kinds of variations in colour and detail that I might create myself.

Best of all, every single image is inclusive, and the whole book is a huge celebration of the many different shapes and forms that humans come in.  

A note on body positivity:

Perhaps the most enlightening section for me was a history of the term Body Positivity and an overview of how the term was hijacked by the diet and beauty industries to effectively push out the communities of larger bodied people who coined the term originally.

There is so much I can say here, but I had never really understood this term from this perspective and so for me, this was such an eye opening read and really helped me reframe what I try to do through the Secret Sewing Club and Start to Stitch. I think in a further blog post I will try to explore this more, but for now, I will be adopting the term ‘body neutrality’ more and more, as it encompasses what I truly believe - that a body is a vessel, neither big, nor small.  It simply is. All bodies deserve to be dressed beautifully, to feel sexy, sultry, comfy and celebrated, with or without whatever end result may be elicited by such undergarments! 

There is no age or size  limit for beautiful lingerie, and this is truly explored with this wonderful book.

In summary:

Positives:

• Inclusive sizing: I commend this book for offering a wide range of sizes, catering to a broader audience than most lingerie sewing resources.
• Clear instructions: The instructions are clear, concise, and easy to follow, even for beginners.
• Beautiful projects: This book features a variety of beautiful and functional lingerie projects, including bras, panties, bralettes, swimwear, and more.
• Well-organised: The book has a really logical organisation, making it easy to find the information you need, quickly and easily.
• Great value for money:The quality and depth of knowledge shared in this book makes it represent exceptional good value for the purchase price

Negatives:

• Limited guidance for advanced sewists: While it is to be celebrated for its beginner-friendliness, some more experienced sewists might find the instructions lacking in advanced techniques, especially if you are some way into your lingerie making journey already.
• Requires basic sewing knowledge: The book assumes some basic sewing knowledge, so it might not be suitable for complete beginners unfamiliar with sewing terminology and techniques.

Overall, Sew Lingerie is a valuable resource for sewists of all levels, particularly those interested in creating their own lingerie and swimwear. The book's inclusive sizing, clear instructions, and variety of projects are its biggest strengths. However, it's important to note that it might require some prior sewing knowledge and might not offer in-depth guidance for experienced sewists. It is nevertheless the most comprehensive book on sewing lingerie that I have come across to date, and well worth a spot on your library shelf!

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Here at Start to Stitch Academy we have a number of online courses available in our Academy, from our Back to Basics course for people who have little or no sewing knowledge, though to learning to Sew with Stretch Fabrics,  and courses to teach you how to sew your own luxurious Soft Furnishings.  In each of the courses we offer you’ll learn new techniques and how to  troubleshoot common issues, as well as create wonderful handmade items. 

Benefits to signing up for one of our courses include:

🌟Lifetime access to your course, giving the ability to complete it at your pace 

🌟Online App means you can access your course from any device.  

🌟Access to a real life tutor via term time zoom sessions closed groups + direct messaging

🌟Spread the cost while you learn with pay by instalment options

Through the Secret Sewing Club, you can get immediate access to ALL our course, plus bi-monthly drop in live zoom classes, a monthly online sewcial, monthly book group, and live course specific teaching blocks throughout the year.  It costs about the same as a cup of coffee each week,  so why not take a look and get started on your sewing journey today 😊

You can also follow us on Facebook and Instagram and why not join our super friendly Stitch Sewcial Facebook group for even more inspiration and sewing loveliness.  We look forward to seeing you there.